turner



' (No Model.) 2 Shgets-ireat. 1.

I. P. TURNER.

- OUFF.

No. 255.214. v Patented Mar.21,1882.

Fig.1.

l F4942. I

Fig.6.

Witn esses Inventor:

u. Firms mwumwer. Washington. no

( L) 2 Sheets-Sheet 2.

- I. P. TURNER.

CUFF.

Patented Mar. 21 1882.

Fig.7.

Wifnesss: Invenfor:

2M %%Mz i I am N. I'EIEHS. Hwlo-Lithognpher, mum-1 m. D. c.

UNITED STAT S PATENT tries.

ISAAC P. TURNER, OF TROY, N. Y., ASSIGNOR TO COON & 00., OF SAME PLACE.

CUFF.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 255,214, dated March 21, 1882.

Application filed December 10, 1881. (No model.)

To all whom it may concern:

Be it known that I, ISAAC P. TURNER, of the city of Troy, county of Ben sselaer, and State of New York, have invented a new and useful Improvement in Apparel-Gail's, of which the following is a specification.

My invention relates to the form given to the fabric blanks from which apparel cuffs are made, and the manner in which the blanks are united to produce the cuffs.

My invention consists in the application of the same size in width and length to the linen blank forming the exterior of the cuff as that which is applied to one thickness of the fabric forming the intermediate ply, in combination with another thickness of the latter out enough wider than the other two to produce a folded boX-plait through its longitudinal center, but so that its exterior edges will coincide in width and length with the other two blanks when the plait is formed and folded, the plaitcd blank having a turning-slit cut in its face near to but inside ofthe seam where the blanks are borderstitched before being turned, the cuff-facing being formed of two blanks having the same length, but each one having halt the width of the exterior linen-blank. To unite the blanks thus relatively cut the unplaited ply-blank is first laid. Next above it is placed the linen exterior blank, and on top of the latter is placed the plaited blank with its plaited side down. Between the latter and the linen blank which forms the finished exterior of the cuff are placed the two half-blanks,with the inner edge of each inserted between the box-plait and the plaited blank, in which position the blanks are borderstitched and turned through the slitin the plaited ply-blank. This being done the loose edges of thehalf-blanks forming the facing are each secured by a row of stitching passing through the cuff, inside the outer edge of the box'plait, which also lays the latter.

Accompanying this specification and forming a part of it are two plates of drawings containing thirteen figures illustrating my invention, and in all of which the same designatio of parts by letter-reference is used. 4

Figure 1 shows the position relatively of one thickness of the intermediate ply and that of thelinen facing when laid preparatory to stitching them to the other parts before the cuff is turned. Fig.2 illustrates the ply-blank,which is cut wider than the other blanks shown in Fig. 1 to form a longitudinal boX-plait. This figure also shows the position of the turningslit made in this widerply-blank, through which the cuff is turned after all the parts are in position and have been border-stitched. Fig. 3 illustrates the blank shown in Fig. 2 as folded through its longitudinal center, and aline of 6o stitching run far enough from the edge of the fold to form a boX-plait. Fig. 5 shows in a cross-section the box-plait in part opened out, and Fig. 4 shows ina cross-section the blank and plaitwith the latter in part folded. Figs. 6 and 7 illustrate the half-blanks, which, with the central box-plait, form the cuff-faoin g when the parts are border-stitched and turned. Fig. 8 shows in acrosssection the position of the plaited ply-blank and the half-blanks, with the inner edges of the latter placed between the fold of the plait and the plait-blank, and as arranged when,with the plait side down, they are placed on the blanks shown in Fig. 1 before being border-stitched and turned. Fig. 9 illustrates the relative position in a cross-section of all the blanks after having been laid and border-stitched before being turned through the slit cut in the plaited ply-blank. Fig. 10 shows the cuifafterhaving been border-stitched and turned, and before having been stitched along the edges of the box-plait to laythe latter, and to secure the inner loose edges of the half-blanks which, with the boX-plait, form the cuff-facing, the loose inner edges of the halfblanks in this latter illustration being designated by a dotted line. section taken on the line D D of Fig. 10. Fig. 12 illustrates the completed cuff; and Fig. 13,

a cross-section of the same, taken on the line .yy of Fig. 12. In all the figures showing crosssections the thickness of the blanks is much exaggerated to better illustrate their relative position.

' As shown in the drawings, the several parts of the cuff illustrated are designated'by letterreference as follows, and the manner of uniting them thus described.

The letter A designates a thickness of the ply; B, the linen exterior 5 and these are laid, as shown in Fig.1, with the latter over the former.

Fig. 11 shows a cross The letter (3 denotes a ply-blank out enough wider than the two others named to produce through its longitudinal center a box-piait, and having near its outer seamingedge the turning-slit O. This latter blank 0, as shown in Fig.3,is folded through its longitudinal center, and the line of stitching d runs far enough from its folded edge to produce a box-plait, and which is opened out and folded, as shown in Figs. 5 and 4.

The letters a (1, Figs. 6 and 7, designate the two halfblanks, which, with the hox-plait C, form the facing of the cuff when finished. These halfbla-nks an are placed with their inner edges loosely laid or temporarily pasted between the side folds of the boX-plait U and the ply G, from which the latter is folded,as shown in cross-section at Fig. 8. The plaited ply-blank and the half-blanks are then 'laid on the blanks B and A, as positioned in Fig. I, with the half-blanks and the plaited side of the ply-blank (3 down, in which condition as laid and placed they are border-stitched, the parts appearing relatively as shown in a crosssection at Fig. 9. The parts are then turned through the slit 0 made in the plaited plyblank 0, which biings out the blank B as the exterior of the cuff, and the halfblanks a a and the box-plait C" as forming the facing of the cuff, with the inner edges of the halfblanks unattached to the plait which they are beneath, and ioose for adjustment. After the adjustment the inner edges of the half-blanks a a are connected to the box-plait G" by the rows of stitching 8 8 ,88 shownin Figs. 12 and 13 of the drawings. In all the cross-sections the thicknesses of the fabric are necessarily exaggerated to better illustrate them and to give distinctncss. The application of a longitudinal box-plait thus formed in one of the ply-blanks and the use of two half-blanks to produce the facing furnish a means for a cross-adjustment from the sides to the center, and which maybe made before securing the parts, and so as to remove any slack or distortion, and thus prevent the facing from wrinkling when being laundered and ironcd, and at the same time, by means of the added boxplait, to sccuie and stay the parts at their 1011- gitudinal center in a new and useful manner.

While I have described and shown my invention as applied to a cuff having rounded corners, it can as an entirety be also applied to one having square corners, and to produce a three-ply cufi' by omitting the use of the filling ply-blank A, the other parts remaining the same as are shown and described.

I am well aware that it is not new to stitch cufl's through their longitudinal center, and I make no claim to such an application apart from its connection with the hox-plait and the two half-blanks which I employ.

Having thus described my invention, what I claim, and desire to secure by Letters Patent, 15-

1. In an apparel-cuff, the combination of a fabric ply-blank having a central lon gitudin a1 box-plait and a turning-slit in its face inside of the edge where sewed to he turned, on exterior fabric blank of the same width andlength as the ply-blank when its boxplait is folded, two fabric facing half-blanks having the same length as the exterior blank, but half its width, and the aforesaid parts united by placing the exterior blank next to the plaited face of the pIybI-ank, and then inserting between them, on each side of the box-plait, one of the facing halfiDlanks, with its inner edge beneath the fold of the boX-plait, then bowler-stitching the parts as placed, turning them through the slit in the plaited ply-blank, and stitching them lon gitudinally along the edges of the hoX-plait to secure the inner edges of. the half-blanks and around the edge of end, as shown and described.

2. In combination, in an apparel cutf, the exterior fabric blank B, the fabric ply-blank A, the fabric ply-blank O, the latter having the longitudinal box-plait G, and the tnrningslit O, the two fabric facing half-blanks a a, and the aforesaid parts united by first laying the ply-blank A upon this the exterior blank (3, with its plaited side down and one of the facing half-blanks inserted next beneath the blank 0, upon each side of the box-plait, and its inner edge beneath the fold of the box-plait, the parts in this position being border-stitched and turned through the slit 0 and stitched along the edges of the half-blanks and around inside of the cuff edge, as shown and described.

3. In an apparel-cuff, a cuff-facing, in combination, consisting of the two fabric halfblanks a a, the box-plait U, and the latter formed on a thickness of theintermediate fillingply, with the inner edges of each one of the half blanks beneath one of the plait-folds, and the rows of stitching s s connecting the inner edges of the half-blanks with the plaitand ply on which theplait is formed, as shown and described.

Signed at Troy, New York, this 8th day of December, 1881.

ISA A0 I. TURNER.

Witnesses:

WM. 0. GEER, CHARLES S. BRIN'INALL. 

